Molinaseca

Friday 17th June 2022 Day 27

We knew today was going to be a tough day, up to the iron cross but more difficult a steep downhill the other side, do we sent both packs on and set off at 5am. Robin may laugh but we needed the head torch as we climbed out of Rabanal. We got to Foncebadon just as the sun started to come up, a quick stop then up the hill to the cross.

The iron cross is the highest point in the Camino and folk lore says that you bring something from home and leave it there to release yourself from your burdens. We were there early and there was an American leaving something and saying a prayer. It obviously meant a great deal to him. There were also quite a few people who wanted a selfie with the cross which spoilt it for us so we moved on. After a bit of time we came to this lovely place for coffee and a sit down!

Then onwards! Without the backpacks it feels quite easy. Eventually we get to the point where we start going downhill. Mostly it looked like this, sometimes steeper!

We passed through a couple of beautiful hill villages. Everyone was finding it difficult, down is definitely harder than up. I wonder how some people managed it and we were very glad we didn’t have the packs!

This is typical architecture round here. It looks beautiful but most villages don’t have many people or money so many beautiful buildings are falling down.

It was supposed to be 24km but because of the steep decline it was equivalent to 28km and it felt it. We saw quite a few people stopped for a rest by the path, or sorting out their blisters, which we haven’t seen before. Eventually we saw Molinaseca in the distance!

Still done way to go down! At last we reached it and fell into the first bar do that we could get a cold beer and more importantly rest our feet!! It turns out that Molinaseca is a local touristy town so was full of school children playing in the river. We were told there was no accommodation available and pilgrims were struggling to get places.

We had a lovely hostal but no air conditioning and it was baking hot still. Hopefully the storm later will make it cooler.

Later we went out to have a quick drink before dinner and ran into Jurgen. We have seen him a few times and chatted a bit but tonight he came and sat with us for a good chat. It started raining do we went inside, not sure if you can see the details in the photo but probably the least hygienic place I have ever seen! Definitely would be closed down in the UK. Jurgen is on the right, he turned out to be an architect without a job trying to work out what to do next. After some wine and conversation he dropped into the conversation that he was a creationist. Robin tried a few questions but he really believes. We had to go off to dinner and leave him but maybe we will see him again and continue the discussion!